![]() Rua Heróis de França 386, Matosinhos, saltaomuro.pt Eat: Tasca do Necas, Santa Marta de Portuzelo Ask the locals which is the best place to eat and they all say the same: “The food in all the restaurants is good – but Salta o Muro’s is the best.” That’s because Moreira and his wife Dona have been cooking here for 30 years, since the days when fish was brought by boat to the wall behind the restaurant (hence the name: “jump over the wall”). ![]() They all have no-nonsense interiors with fluorescent lighting, and there’s only one thing on the menu: fish. Rua Heróis de França in Matosinhos is lined with family restaurants. Group lessons from €20, private lessons from €50 (1hr 30 mins), saltywaters.pt Eat: Salta o Muro, Matosinhos And this is a man with big plans: he is aiming to introduce Wavegarden (the artificial wave system developed in Spain and used at Surf Snowdonia) to Portugal in 2019. My paddling technique suddenly improved after one lesson from Pedro Santos. You can find surf instructors anywhere, but the good ones stand out. Praia De Esmoriz, Rua Senhor dos Aflitos 433, Eat: SWELLcafé, Figueira da Foz He’s a salty soul, and before you know it, you’ll be sharing sea stories. Rui and his team will make you feel welcome no matter your age. Finding a good surf school as an adult is not always easy. Before he started the camp, he worked in several schools in Portugal and in Brazil and Mexico. Owner Rui Enes has been living by the beach for as long as he can remember. Her husband, a surfer named João, will gladly give you the lowdown on the nearby waves.įrom €58 a night (sleeps 4), Surf: Surfer’s Camp For views of those waves, stay at Casa Azul apartments, furnished by Mariana, a Lisboan who provides a surf-and-city vibe. Come in winter if you’re looking for monster swells. Want to see the spectacle yourself? Nazaré doesn’t always work – not even most of the time, in fact. Just off the coast, a long, deep underwater trench plays its part, influencing the waves as the water collides against it. Nazaré is the only place in Portugal to hold big-wave competitions. A wave called Big Mama, behind the legendary lighthouse at Praia do Norte, can reach heights of more than 30 metres. Fred surfs as well – to spot him in the sea, just look out for a shock of white hair.ĭoubles from € 46, dorm beds from €22, suite from €60, Surf: Oscar Schenk The name combines two loves: Dina (Marta’s late mother) and onda (wave). In the summer of 2017 they opened a second guesthouse, Ondina. She knows the village and the village knows her. Fred is a former Belgian snowboarding champion who fell in love with a Portuguese woman. The next night, they took me and some friends to Bar Zinho, where we danced to a local band until the early hours. Its website features an excellent guide to the area’s surf spots.ĭoubles from €80 B&B, Stay: Roots Ericeira Guesthouse & Ondinaįred and Marta brought out the port on my first evening in their B&B, even though I arrived after midnight. Olá Onda is built on a hill of vines, from which you can take in the sights and sounds of the sea. ![]() They bought a traditional villa, added green shutters and spruced up the decor. Darcie’s mother is Portuguese, so it was an easy choice when they were looking for somewhere to set up a guesthouse. Loosely translated, the name means hello wave! This B&B is operated by Dutch surfer couple Jasper and Darcie. Rua Lançarote de Freitas 48, Lagos, on Facebook ALENTEJO AND WESTERN ALGARVE Stay: Aldeia da Pedralva Rua 28 de Janeiro 11, +351 282 698 622, on Facebook Drink The Garden, LagosĪt this fashionable jungle-themed rooftop bar in central Lagos, the food isn’t memorable but the exotic atmosphere is pure holiday vibe. I was only going to make a pit stop but ended up staying for three days. There’s no sea view but it’s an unpretentious place where the swordfish steals the show. Order the prato do dia (dish of the day) and tuck in for less than €7. This is a simple but delicious seafood restaurant in the fishing village of Salema. Sometimes they break up the waves with their tricks, whereas women go with the flow of the sea.” We dance on the water and we’re out to have fun. Kegels thinks surfing is a female sport: “The waves, the fluid lines, the poetry of the sea. Accommodation is at the beautifully furnished One Life Lodge (open to men and non-surfers too doubles from €85 B&B) that looks over Praia do Burgau. Photograph: Veerle Helsenīelgian-born Katrien Kegels organises women-only surf weeks called Chicks on Waves.
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